How to Install an Exterior Door

Exterior doors are most often replaced due to poor preparation when the door was installed. When installed properly an exterior door should last many decades. As with any project, it's best to take your time and understand the project before you start.

Preparation:
Installing a simple exterior door does not take more than a few hours of labor for most, but you will want at least a couple days for the preparation.

Measure:
Accurate measurements is very important and will reduce the installation time. I like to measure the rough opening and not the inside of the door jamb. This will eliminate any measurement errors that the old door may have. For example if the old door was too small and used excessive shims then the new door will need excessive shims. Also when you measure from 2x4 to 2x4 you can check the frame for rot. If you they need replacing, make sure you have them before your project is started.

The easiest way to measure the rough opening is to pull the trim molding from the inside of the door. To pull the trim you will need a razor knife, hammer and pry bar. If there is any paint build up, use the razor knife score along the edge where the trim meets the drywall, with the razor knife angled towards the trim. Then use the pry bar to pry off the trim.

With the trim molding removed you should be able to see the rough opening 2x4 and the amount of shims used for the old door. To get an accurate measurement you can insert two shims (on each side of the doorway) and place them between the door jamb and 2x4 frame. Then measure from shim to shim. This will give you the rough opening width. You will want to do this for the top, middle, and bottom. Once you have all three measurement you can order the door. Most common exterior single door is 36 inch and is usually in stock at most big box stores.f

Painting (Very Important!) :
A pre-hung door looks like you just install it, that is not the case. You must first prep the door, the door warranty is only valid if you follow the manufacturers instructions. In most cases the door jambs and door edges are primed white, do not confuse this with paint.

Primer is porous and will absorb moisture like paint or water, left unpainted the jambs will more than likely rot out in a couple of years.

Most fiberglass door have no wood and the door edges will not need to be painted, but the door jambs are wood and will need to be painted. On most steel doors with a wood core will need the sides (edges) of the door and jambs painted and solid wood doors may come completely finished or unfinished. Any part that you have to paint, make sure you paint two coats. Waiting at least 4 hours between coats. Make sure to follow your manufactures preparation guide or it may void your warranty.

Removing the old door.
Before removing the old door, make sure you have everything ready. Make a check list of everything you need. Once you have the old door removed you do not want to have to run around looking for the things you need.
At minimum you will need:

• Level to check the rough opening.
  
• Hammer, Chisel and/or grinder.
• Nails or screws or Nail gun.
• Caulking and caulking gun.
• Broom and hand brush or vacuum.
• Screw drivers and pry bar.
• Cordless drill and any bits you will need.
• Rags, clean water, gloves and a bucket for trash. (clean as you go!)
  
• Scrape wood.
  

Now that you have everything ready, remove the door by pulling the hinge pins. Remove the door and place it out of the way. Next you will need to remove the old door jamb. Since many door jambs will have a long screw in each hinge, remove all the hinge plates from the old door jamb. Next you should see either nails or screws going through the door jamb in to the 2x4 frame, along each side. If you have nails use the pry bar to remove the nails, if you have screws use the cordless drill. Once the nails/screws are remove the door jamb should come right out. If it does not check the top for any nails or screws then check the threshold. Screws should never go through the threshold. If you still have trouble use the pry bar to pry the threshold as it may have excessive amounts of caulking or glue.

Preparing the rough opening.
Once the door is out, you will need a closer inspection of the 2x4 frame. And replace them if you see any rot. (If you noticed any rot when you where measuring the rough opening, you should have replacement 2x4s ready (always use pressure treated lumber (they usually have a greenish color) ))

If the frame is in good shape you will need to use the level to check the floor and side for level. If the floor is not level you will need to make it as level as possible. By filling in the low spots or removing the high spots.

Door Installation
Now that you have the hard parts done, the door should go up easy. Making sure the floor is clean and free from dust, dirt, etc. Place the door face down with the threshold just outside of the rough opening. Add silicon caulking to the bottom of the door and stand up the pre-hung door in to place.

Next open the door placing scrape wood or other type of supports under the door. And adjust the supports to hold the door jamb in place. Staring at the top, make the door jamb flush with the inside (where the inside trim is attached) and add the shims equally on both sides. I start at the top since the top shims offer the most support. If you are working by yourself you tack in the top on the hinge side to help hold the door in place. Then add the shims to the middle and then the bottom and check the side for level. Make sure the door jamb is flush with the inside wall as you work your way down the door. You may have to adjust the shims. Remember that you will have two options for each adjustment. You can achieve the same adjustment by moving the top or the bottom in opposite direction. You should always choose to adjust the top or bottom based on how much wiggle room you have. If the top has the most wiggle room then adjust the top. Once you have the door jamb level add four screws, two on each side (near the top and bottom).

Now the door should stay up without any support. And it's time to test it, gently close the shut and make sure that you have ample clearance (about 1/4 inch but check the door instructions). Some doors come with a little nob to indicate the required clearance. If you need to make an adjustment remove one screw and adjust the shim. If a minor adjustment is needed you can simple tighten a screw to pull the jamb in the that direction. Once the you have the adjustments finished, you can add two more screws to each side in the middle. Be careful not to bow the door jamb, by tightening the screw too much.

Now test the door, if no other adjustments are needed you can add the 2 1/2 screws to the hinges. Most door will have one open hole on each hinge. Simple drive the screw through the door jamb and into the 2x4 frame. Now the door is installed and ready for hardware and trim.

Extension for a Storm Door or Brick Molding.
If you want to install a storm door or have walls greater than 6 inches then an door extension is what you will want. The big box store will have these in stock, but if you have the tools they are very simple to make.

Making an exterior door extension.
You will need three pieces a top and two sides. I use Google Sketch It to draw out anything I build and have taken a 2-D picture from the drawing.

Click Image to Enlarge.

This was for an older home and most everything needed to be custom. From the image you can see that the storm door requires 35 3/4 inch width and I made the sides a little log so I can cut each one to fit.
To find the measurements:

1. The manufacture of the storm door will have the required width. In this example it was 35 3/4 inch.
2. Also you will need the height of the storm door, many are adjustable.
   
3. Measure from the threshold to the top of the doorway. In this example it was 82 1/4.
4. Measure the width of the doorway. In this example it was 38 3/4.

Sides:
Now take the width of the doorway (38 3/4) and subtract the width required for the storm door (35 3/4), which comes out to 3 inches. Since there are two side divided by 2. This will give you the width of the side at 1 1/2 inches wide.

Top:
The top is the same width of the two sides. But the height you will need to calculate; Subtract the height required for the storm door from the height of the doorway. In this example the doorway was 82 1/4 and the door was adjustable, but the door was to set at the minimum of 78 3/4. (Height = 82 1/4 - 78 3/4 = 3 1/2). So the dimension of the top is 38 3/4 wide, 3 1/2 high, 1 1/2 thick.

Since the height of the top was taller than the width of the side, a simple 45 degree cut would not do. By using Google Sketch Up I can calculate the length of each cut. But it's not very hard to figure out. If you can not cut a a simple 45 on each piece and need to make a cut similar to this example. Using a table saw, raise the blade to the top width - side width (3 1/2 - 1 1/2 = 2) of the side and mark each end of the top, 2 inches in. So you would have to marks 2 inches for both end. Now pass each end making a 2 inch deep cut 1 1/2 inches in. Then tilt the blade to a 45 degree and turn over the top. Line up the bottom of the blade with the corner of the top end, adjust the blade to where you can just see the blade through the 1 1/2 cut you just made. Then make the cut on each end. If you think you might I trouble making this type of cut you should use a scrape piece of wood the same width and thickness of the top member. The straight cut will be simple but the angle cut is more difficult. Once you have the angle correct you can cut the angles on the top member and then make the straight cut.

Brick Molding Installation:
Once you have everything cut it's ready to be installed. You have two choices the first is to nail or screw the molding in to the exterior door jamb. Or you can screw it in to the inside of the doorway. If the brick molding lines up nicely with the door jamb (in most cases it will) the nail or screw it to the door jamb. Once you have the extension (brick molding) up your ready to hang the storm door. Since this varies from door to you should follow the manufactures installation guide (reading and understanding it first then start the installation).

As always, do not rush the project, take your time and think about how each step will effect other aspects of the project. There is nothing worse than having to deconstruct something you just built.

DIY Flow Through Live Well

Over the years I have built many flow through live wells. Typically if you own a boat that has a factory live well, more than likely it will be a recirculating live well. While theses work fine to keep shrimp or a few small bait fish alive, it will not do so good when a live well full of frisky baits is needed. A flow through live well pumps water in to the well and a gravity fed overflow that will allow the overflow to drain from the live well.

When you use a bait such as whitebait or any other schooling fish, a flow through live is a must. Whitebait have a very high metabolism, which requires lots a oxygen and they produce lots wastes proteins. If the proteins are not removed from the live well, the bait will die. The protein comes in the form of white to off white bubbles. When the bubbles start to stack up it's on only a matter of minutes before all the bait is dead and all the hard work and time involved is wasted.

Location:
The first thing to decide is the location of the well. The best place for a live well is the back center of the boat, but I have seen them in the front, back, middle and sides. You can have it below deck or above deck. The above deck live well is easier to install and use. With a below deck live well, it's seems like you are having to stand on your head to get a bait, but does not reduce deck space and offers a much cleaner look.

Size:
How big? The wells are measured in gallons, since the water is replaced every few minutes you can get away with a much smaller live well that will support more bait. But I like to build the live well as big as the designated location will handle, as long as the weight does not become an issue. Remember water weighs about 8 lbs per gallon, so a 10 gallon well will add 80+ lbs.

Container:
There are many choices for the container. Many companies make live wells in many shapes and sizes and most very high quality. But there are many options at a much lower cost. A low cost alternative to buying a live well is to use a cooler.
The best shape for a live well is round, followed by oval, then rectangle with rounded corners. The container must be able to support the weight of the water and withstand the elements. It is also better to have lower profile container to help keep the center of gravity as low as possible to reduce the splashing and spill over.

Plumping:
There will be at least two intakes pipes; a high speed pick up and a pump pick up. The high speed pick up is basically a 45 degree angle cut on the end of a pipe that is slightly below the surface of the water, when the boat is on a plane. The pump pick up is a pump mounted below the water line when the boat is at rest and above the water line when on plane. Each intake will need it's own pluming, if you run the high speed pick through the pump it will reduce the life of the pump.

There is one drain, which must exceed the capacity of the intake. To make sure this is always the case, I used 1/2 intake pipes and 2 1/2 drain. The water level will be controlled by the location of the drain and not the drain capacity. The drain also needs to have a filter so the bait does not get pushed out the drain. The inflow also needs a filter to avoid pulling in sea weed and other debris in to the inflow pipes.

The drain needs to be located near the top and the inflow needs to be located at the bottom. For any shape other than round the drain and inflow will be on the same wall but, opposite sides.

What this will do is help the water circulate in a circular flow. If the inflow is in the center it will cause the water flow to act like a washing machine and that is bad for the bait.

Materials:
1 - Cooler/Container
1 - Gun size 5200 marine adhesive.
10 ft 1/2 inch PVC (more may be needed if the well is in the front of the boat)
1/2 inch 45 degree PVC elbows
1/2 inch PVC connectors or couplings.
PVC primmer and glue
1- 500 - 800 gph Bilge pump (internal float switch optional but nice to have)
5 ft 1/2 O.D. flexible clear braided tubing
1 - 1/2 PVC check value (you need two, but can get away with just one)
2 - 2 1/2 stainless steel bulk head
4 - 1/2 inch stainless PVC pipe clamps
10 #10 stainless steel 1 in screws
1 - Hatch (for below deck live well)

Tools:
Drill
1/2in hole saw
2 1/2 in hole saw
Saw

Procedure:
Since the procedure is about the same regardless to the container type, I used a 12 gallon (48 qt) cooler I picked up at Wal-Mart for $15.00.

The first step is to layout everything and have all the measurements before you make any cuts. Then start making all the holes for the hatch, drains and mounting the intake pipes and drain bulk heads. When drilling holes in a cooler, use very light pressure, the plastic shells have a tendency to split. If that should happen, you should start over with a new cooler to avoid any leaks around the seals.

This design has two intakes, one pump and one high speed.

I like to run the pipes over the transom, this will keep any water from running out the inflow pipes. But you can run all the pipe through the transom, you will need to use 2 check values(one for each inflow pipe)


Notice the flex tubing, this is any important part of the system. Since boats bang around most of the time, there is going to be a lot of stress put on the joints of the pipes. I use flex pipes close to any angles in the pipe. This will allow some flexibility in the pipe structure. Since the check value will reduce the water flow, I installed only one check value on the high speed intake.

You will also need a siphon break, when the boat changes planes (on plane or off plane) the intake source will change. i.e. When the boat comes off a plan the high speed intake stops and the pump intake will take over. This is where a siphon can set up in the high speed intake. This means the water flow will reverse and flow out the high speed intake, draining the live well. A siphon break is just a small hole 1/16 or 1/32 inch in the top of the intake pipe. This will serve two purposes. The first is to allow air into the top of the pipe when the inflow as stopped, breaking the siphon. The second is when the high speed pick is working a small stream of water will shoot out of the small hole. This is a very simple and very effective way to monitor the high speed pick. If the stream starts to slow down or stop, chances are there is some debris building up in the intake feed and you will need to stop and clear it. The siphon break applies the same way to the pump inflow.

The two intakes should merge in to one pipe so there will only be on inflow pipe in to the live well.

And the drain returning all the intake water back to ocean. The drain on the outside of the boat must be lower than the drain in the live well.


Once you have the layout completely worked out you will need start with making the holes for the hatch(if below deck), drain and mounting the water picks. It's best to have the pick ups and drain installed before you start.

For deck top:
You can use the existing cooler top, but make sure it opens facing the back the back of the boat. You do not want the wind to catch the lid and rip it off. And if you use the cooler top you might want to find a cooler that has a small access door in the top to reduce spill overs when the live well is open. Or you can make a top out of cutting board material with a small access hatch in the center. To secure the live well to the deck you can drill 4 holes in the bottom of the live well and attached it using bolts through the top of deck. Make sure to use plenty of 5200 to seal the holes. You will want to use large washer and seal under the deck, between the top of the deck and live well and most important inside the live well. If you ended up with a leak it is very hard to fix without tearing it down and starting over.

For below deck:
You will need to remove the cooler lid and use (or build) a deck hatch, I used a Tempress slam hatch.
Securing the container under the deck is a challenge. Since I built the deck on my boat, I installed the live well before the deck was installed. If you do not have that option you will need to have access to area and be able to slide the container in place. It's best to cut the access hatch hole first (making sure you have the exact measurements!) . Next you will need to seal the top of the container to the deck. The easiest way to do this is to built a platform that allows 3/4 inch clearance at the top of the container and the deck, then slide the container in with plenty of 5200 on the rim to seal it. Then on each side, drive 1x4 (which is 3/4 inch think) PT deck lumber under the container which will press the container against the deck and sealing it to the deck. Then secure the container to the deck lumber, if the fit is rally snug you can use a thick bead of 5200 around the cooler and that should hold. Then secure deck lumber to the platform.

Once you have the container secured, you can connect the pluming.

Inflow High Speed pick up:
There are several transom mount on the market. But they are very easy to build. Just cut a 45 degree angle in the end of a 1/2 PVC pipe. Mount the pipe so the top of the angle is just about even with the bottom of the bottom. I also used 4 strands of stainless steel wire attached with epoxy to keep out any grass. When the boat is on a plane it will force water into the pipe.

Inflow pump pick up:
This is a little more tricky. You want to mount the pump on a stainless L bracket, just above the bottom of the boat, so that is will not touch the water when you are on a plane, but will be below the water line when the boat is at off plane. If you have a small boat you will want the pump closer to the center line of the boat. In small boats if you mount the pump on the left or right side and your boat leans to one side, it cause the pump to start sucking air and form airlock. On larger boats you will not have this problem. If you can get a pump with a built in float switch you can just leave the power on and when you jump up on plane the pump will automatically shut off and turn on when you come off plane.

Inflow pluming:
The way I build mine is not pretty, but it is easy to monitor the water flow and adjust or repair most of the pluming.
Notice that the high speed pick up and pump pick are connected using a pvc tee, forcing both intake pips in to a single pipe. At that single pipe then is run in to the live well.
You can use a bulk head to connect the single inflow pipe in to the bottom of the live. I chose to use 2 pvc couplers and a small piece of pipe. I drilled the hole so the pcv pipe would have a snug fit then cemented the one coupler with the pipe and used 5200 to glue it in to place. Then cemented the other end. I also built in a spray bar that attaches to the inflow pipe to spray the water from the top of the live well. It's not very usful, so I think just a single bulk head would be easier and faster.

Last is the drain, I used a hole saw to drill the hole about 2 inches from the top of the cooler. Do not drill the hole too high or the cooler will crack and bust apart from the weight of the water. I installed the stainless bulk head and use plenty of 5200. Then attached a pool skimmer basket with a liberal amount of 5200 over the bulk head. This will keep any bait from going out the drain and it does not restrict the drain flow much. Then used a flex hose to connect the live drain to the outside drain. You will want the outside drain to be at or below the water line. If the drain is to high it will make lots of noise as the water runs out and it may reduce the drain capacity. But the most import issue with the outside drain is that it must be lower then the drain in side the live well.


If you noticed there is no way to empty this live well. The inflows will not allow water to flow out and the main drain is at the top. Since I fish several times a week, I do not drain the live well. And when I know I will not fish for a month or two, I use a small bucket to manually empty it. If you want to install a drain you can add a Y value in the main intake pipe and open the value to drain the tank. You will however, need to keep close watch and make sure the drain value is never open during boat operation or it will fill the boat with water. (That's the main reason why my live well has no drain.)

Happy Bait!

A 10-12 gallon live well will easily support 100 or more frisky whitebait.
Good Luck!

DIY Laminate Flooring Installation Tips

I am not a professional laminate floor installer, but my friends and family must think I am. After installing about 10,000 square feet, I thought I would post things that I have learned along the way.

Time Consideration :
The most important tip I can give you is: TAKE YOUR TIME!
Be realistic, if you think or need to lay 1000 sq ft in 5 hours you will be disappointed. If you have little or no experience it will take about 8 to 10 man hours to lay 150 sq ft. If there are two people that work well together, about 4 to 5 hours. And for each additional person "helping" add 5 hours. Anymore than two people working in one room will only cause confusion and slow down the process. Of course the more complex the room the more time it will take.

Tools General Information :

Saws and saw blades
Minimum, you will need at least two saws, an undercut saw and a jig saw.

Saw Blades: Avoid the trap of buying the very expensive blades for laminate floor. The surface of the laminate is made out of the same stuff that is used to make sand paper. It's very hard and will dull every blade on the market. I usually get a new cheap blade to start a project. As the blade dulls it will cause more and bigger chips in the flooring, if cutting gets too slow or chips too big you may need to replace the blade.

Undercut Saw: A handsaw designed to cut the door jambs.

Jig Saw: Used to make curved cuts. My blade of choice is a bi-metal blade, since the laminate flooring is very hard a wood cutting blade dulls easy and the chips the floor.

Crosscut or Chop saw: This is the most common saw used to crosscut (cut the width) laminate flooring, it is fast, easy and very accurate. A 10in chop saw works well with smaller planks. For planks larger than 5 1/2 inches you will need a 12 inch chop saw or 10 inch sliding chop saw.

Skill saw: I use a skill saw to make angled cut on long planks. If a wall has an angle many time the chop saw will not be able to make the cut. Typically angled walls are 45 degrees (Don't believe it, they are 40 to 50 degrees) so you will need to a mark a line and I find it easier to use a skill.

Table saw: Just about any table saw will work. When you get to the end of a room it is likely that you will have to rip (cut lengthwise) the last row.

Other Tools:


Hammer: I like to use a framing hammer. It has a bit more weight than an average hammer, making it easier to snap in the planks.
Drill and masonry bit for concrete floors.
Tapping Blocks: Plastic block used for tapping the planks
Pulling Bar: A metal bar used pull the planks
Spacers: Used to maintain the expansion gap.
Knee Pads: A life saver or knee saver at least. I use knee pads that will slide easy on the floor, this makes it easier to move around.
Tape measure: Most of the time you will not need it.
Square: This is important, not the I have every found walls that where square, but you will need it to mark the planks.
Pencils: More than one. I use one at the saw, two on the floor and never carry one.
Razor Knife: For cutting the under lament, opening flooring packages and sharping pencils...
All the safety equipment recommended for each tool you are using!


Laminate Floor Selection:
This is where it all starts and is a very important step. Setting the look of the laminate aside, something to think about is the size of the planks. The larger planks go down faster, since there will be less cutting and fewer trips to the saw and each planks covers more area. But they will have more waste and can be more difficult to manage in small areas, such as hallways and closets.
The smaller planks will have less waste and will be easier to manage in general. The cuts are usually less complex, but you will have twice as many trips to the saw.
If you are skilled with a saw and drawing more complex cuts then I would go with the large planks. If you are less skilled with a saw then the smaller planks would likely give you better results and less waste. But you will have more trips to the saw.

There is also the flooring with or without padding attached. I prefer flooring without padding for floors that will require a moisture barrier, since you will need to lay down some form of under lament you can choose the quality of the padding.

Also do not forget, the flooring needs time to acclimate. Check with the manufacture for the amount of time needed. Usually it's about 48-72 hours.

Floor Preparation :
Before you rip up the old flooring make sure you understand the task involved to lay the new floor. This is not a figure it out as you go project. If you have carpet, you will need to pull up the carpet and padding. Then the tack boards (the thin board with all the nails sticking up) along the walls. Best thing I have found is to use a pry bar and jam under the tack board at each nail. This will either pop up the nail or break the tack board. And sometimes the head of the nail will pop off.

You can use the pry bar to pull up the nails. Most of the time, on concrete floors the nails will leave a small divot which is no problem. For the nails with no head you can hit them with a hammer and most of the time they will pop out, bend over or sink flush in to the floor. As long as you can slide a board over the nail with out the board touching the nail your good.

Next you'll need to clean up the mess, and sweep the floor. Make sure you have a good pair of gloves to pick up the tack boards, since the have sharp nails facing both direction it's easy to get cut by the nails.

Depending on the under laying floor you will need to fill in any low spots with the recommended fill and remove the high spots. No one ever gets the floor completely level, if you can notice a difference when walking on the bare floor then it needs to be fixed or it will be more noticeable once the floor is done and can cause the flooring to show gaps at the seems. And you do not want to pull up the floor to fix a problem that can be fixed now.

At this point you should have a relatively clean and level floor.

Base Board Moldings :
You have two choices here.
1. Leave the your current molding alone and add a 1/4 round to cover the expansion gap.
2. Pry off all the base board moldings.

Typically I opt for number one. You can use the existing molding to back the spacers then tack up 1/4 round after the floor is down.

However Number two looks better, but is more work and time. If you choose to remove the molding you will need a dry place to store them and many sections will be 10 ft or longer. And you will need to store them in order or number them, since you will need to but them back in their original location. I usually will number them in the order they are remove. Then writing the same number on that section of wall so that the number will be covered when the molding is reinstalled. If a molding breaks (this is very likely one or more will break) you will need to have a replacement. Also in some construction there maybe a 3/4 inch board that is used to keep the drywall off the bare floor. You do not want to remove this board, if you do the spacer will slide under the drywall, which will make it difficult to maintain the expansion gap. As you can see removing the molding can be tricky, but if you have the time it does look better.

Door Jambs :
You will need to remove all doors, including closet doors. The door jambs will need to be cut (regardless to your molding choice) with an undercut saw so that the flooring can slide under the door jamb.


This task can be very frustrating and time consuming. You will need a scrap piece of the laminate floor and lay it along side of the door jamb. Using an undercut saw, cut the bottom of the jamb off using the laminate as a guide (this will give a space slightly thicker then the laminate).
You will need to cut IC1 (both sides) , IJS and DS (see fig above) until they fall off leaving a 8-13mm (depending on the thinness of the flooring) space at the bottom of the door jamb.
Once you have the door jambs cut it is very important to sweep up the debris. The cut molding typically breaks up if a piece of the molding gets under the floor it will cause problems or if you kneel on one you will know it. Then vacuum the floor to remove most of the dust.

Now you are ready to setup the tool area and work area.

Tool Area:
I like to have a saw area outside of the work area. This makes for a cleaner work area. I set up everything I need to ahead of time. Try to give each saw it's own work space so it can handle the full length of the flooring.

The jig saw and skill saw area will need to support the flooring and have an open space below to allow for the blade. I use quick clamps (never under estimate the usefulness of quick clamps! ) to hold the plank while cutting.

The chop saw area needs to be flat and uncluttered, if a piece of debris is caught under the plank it will cause the cut to be out of square.

The table saw area should be big enough to allow a full blank to the clear the blade and be supported the whole time. If not the flooring may bind with the blade causing burn marks or a kick back sending the flooring across the room.

I use a large portable workbench that I built from this article I also incorporated a table saw. If you like building stuff, this bench is 100% worth building.


Once you have the tool area set up, it time to start working....

Work Area and Work Process:
Lay the under lament and/or moisture barrier down per the manufactures specs.

There will are four sides to each plank and two types of edges. To make it easy to remember, I will call them the inny and outy. I will reference the four edges of the flooring by the following; long side inny, long side outy, short side inny and short side outy.
Making the cuts without a ruler.
In most cases, you can install your entire floor without ever using a tape measure. All you need is a square and a pencil. When marking the cut line you will want to use a T shaped line (see fig below)


This T shaped line is very important. When you make a cut you will need to know which side will keep the line. Meaning blade will cut through the plank leaving the line on one of the two pieces. If you cut on the wrong side of the line your plank will be off by about 1/8 - 1/4 in. By using the T shaped mark you will know to leave the T and pass the blade across plank at the top of the T, making a perfect cut every time. If you look at the picture of the cut line above (click on the picture to make it bigger) you will notice that the two planks in view are facing long side inny. Which means the plank with the mark is facing the wrong direction. This is how you will mark every end piece and never come up short or long. When you reach the end of a row, you will need to cut the last piece in the row.
Step 1. Take a full plank and turn it the wrong direction facing up (long side inny to long side inny)
Step 2. At the end of the row you will want to line up the surface edges. (since the grooves (inny and outy) are different width you will always want to use the surface of the floor and not the edge)
Step 3. Line up the plank to be cut with the last plank of the previous row. You will have the plank to be cut over lapping the last plank you installed and the surface of the plank to be cut lined up with the end of the last row. The make the T line where the over lapping plank and the plank to be cut line up, as in the picture and cut.

I like to start out with the wall that is straight and has no obstructions. Once you have decided on the starting wall, place one or two boxes of flooring, on each end, a few feet from the wall. You will work from left to right, starting with the outy edges facing the wall, snap the first few pieces together, do not worry about the spacers yet. Once you have the first row down, the end piece of the first row will need to be cut. But before you make the cut put the spacers along the wall (at each joint and at the mid point of each plank) and press the first row against the spacer. To mark the cut line take a full plank and line it up with The left over piece will start the second row.

NOTE: Now this is where trouble can start. If the left over piece is going to be too short to start a new row(per mfg rec.) or the end piece on the first row is going to be too short, you will need to make an adjustment. The easiest fix is to simply cut the outy of first plank by the minimum minus the length of the last piece. So if the last piece would be 3 inches and the minimum required length is 8 inches you would cut 5 inches off from the first piece.

Now that you have the first two rows done things should go quickly. At this point you should have two rows with staggered joints. Basically you just repeat what you did for the first two rows. The end left over from the end piece starts the next row and as you start the next row add a spacer at the row joint. In the event you end up with a short piece at the end or start of a row, see the note above and adjust row that caused the issue.

When snapping the flooring together I find it's easiest to insert the new plank at a 30 degree angle and slide it towards the last plank until the outy just about meets the surface of the previous plank. Then using the tapping block, lightly tap the plank inward while moving the tapping block toward the inny end. Once you've reached the end slide the tapping block to the inny end and tap the plank in to it's final position. There is one snag here and that is sometimes the while tapping on the end the other side may not be align vertically. To solve this issue, simply have someone press down on the ends as you tap them together. Or you can place your left foot on the two end while tapping them together.

Once you have a few rows down, you will want to shift your work area. Start moving the laminate on to the few rows that you have down. This will help hold them in place and provide easy access to the supply of planks. Also you will want to keep at least a couple of open boxes at each end randomly drawing from the open boxes, this will help mix up the flooring.

As you move towards the end wall, chance are you will need to rip (cut lengthwise) a full row. Make sure you measure each blank and each end. I have yet to find a straight wall. As you move down the row the width may get wider or narrower.

Now that the floor is down it's time to add the trim. You can nail it back with a hammer and finish nails, but that will take a while and is not easy on the knuckles. If you can get a compressor and finish trim nailer it will save you lots of time, look better and you will not leave hammer marks or have to counter sink the nails.

If you pulled the base molding simply replace each piece back to it's original location.

If you choose to add 1/4 round and you do not have a chop saw, you will need a miter saw. You will have three angles for a square room; inside 45 degree, outside 45 degree and 0 degree or straight cuts. All your cuts will be 45 degrees except for cutting end caps.
Where two pieces come together you will want to make each end 45 degree, one an inside 45 and the other outside 45. When butted together they will form a perfect seam add a dab of glue and nail it to the wall. When you reach a doorway you will want to finish the end with end caps.

Now that you have your floor completed I also have a few other tips.
The floor will last a very long time. However you will need to be ware of things that will reduce the life of the floor and other issues with laminate flooring.

1. Office chairs. I installed laminate floors in my office more than 10 years ago. My office is a very high traffic area, after the first year I noticed the floor had a big round dull sport under my chair. I have a Herman Miller Aeron chair with hardwood casters. I thought the hardwood caster would keep the floor in perfect condition. As it turns out caster wheels will pick up small grits of sand and over time the casters will dull and scratch the floor. I use standard floor wax, the kind you get a grocery store and the starches where gone. But I knew they would be back. My solutions was to add a low profile rug under my chair.

2. Bathrooms and kitchens: ceramic tile is better suited for these areas, however some people want laminate. In this case you will need to glue the flooring to help fight the moisture. I use tight bound II or III

3. Dogs: Big and small dogs have a problem with laminate flooring. They don't damage the floor, but the floor will damage the dog. What happens is the floor a very slick and the dog will constantly try grip the floor with it's nails. Which can cause permanent damage to the dog's hip. An easy solution is to add a few rug runners in the area where the dog travels. Once the runners are down you will notice that the dog will always walk on the runner and not floor.

4. Slippery when wet! You will wan to make sure all spills are dried up as quickly as possible. If liquids seeps in to the seams it will cause the flooring to swell around the seam.